Bruce Lock and Fold Installation Guide

Getting Started

Always check each board for damage before installing.

  1. Avoid narrow pieces at the finish wall. Measure the distance between the starting wall and the finish wall.
  2. Divide this number by the width of the board.
  3. If the remainder is less than 2 1/2" (6.35 cm), cut off 2 1/2" (6.35 cm) from the width of the first row, or to balance the room - add the difference to the plank width and divide by two.
  4. Roll out Armstrong™ Two-in-One Advanced® or Premium Hard-Surface Flooring Underlayment or Moisture Barrier Sheeting along the starting wall, and cut to length. Kitchen and bathroom installations require folding the underlayment up the wall 2" (5 cm). Place additional sections with butt seams as the installation progresses.
  5. To minimize pattern repeats in the floor, always pull from at least three cartons of flooring while installing.


Wall Irregularities

All wall irregularities require cutting the first or last row of boards to fit the contour of the wall.

  1. Use dividers or a spacer turned sideways 1" (2.54 cm) wide to mark the contour.
  2. Cut to shape.
  3. Position the cut piece, using the pull bar to tighten the last piece in place.
  4. Place a spacer between the end of the board and the side wall.
  5. Two tapered spacers can be used as wedges to accommodate irregular walls.


Cutting

  1. A good quality carbide-tipped cutting blade that has been designed for composition and laminate materials such as melamine, coreboard, or other hard, dense, man-made materials is recommended. When extra clean cut edges are required -- e.g., custom installations -- you may need more elaborate cutting equipment.
  2. When using a hand saw, cut with the decorative side of the board facing up.
  3. When using power saws, the direction of blade must cut into the decorative side of the board to minimize chipping.
  4. Use a square to keep your cut line straight.
  5. Cut the marked piece in another area to keep the sawdust away from the installation site.


Install Underlayments

Install Underlayment With logo-side UpCover subfloor with underlayment, Logo side up. If subfloor is concrete or any existing floor over concrete, tape the seams with clear plastic tape. (Figure 1)


Install First Row

  1. Inspect each piece prior to installation for damaged boards.
  2. Always pull from at least 3 cartons while installing to minimize pattern repeats.
    Pull: Tongue, Groove, End Joint


Figure 1

  1. Lay first row of boards with tongue side facing the wall.
  2. If the starting wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of planks and trim as needed.
  3. Use spacers along all sides that butt up against walls to maintain 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone.
  4. Lay pieces from left to right. Lock the end joints by installing at an angle to the previous board.
  5. When measuring the last piece in the row, subtract 1/4" (6.35 mm) from the end of the board to maintain expansion zone.
  6. Cut decorative side up if using a hand saw or decorative side down if using a power saw to minimize chipping.
  7. If the cut-off piece from the first row is 8" (20.32 mm) or longer, use it to start the second row. If it is less than 8" (20.32 mm), cut a full board in half and use that.


Install Remaining Rows

  1. Continue laying boards, one row at a time and staggering the end joints.
  2. Install long end of first board, then the second row at an angle
    Install the long end of the first board in the second row at an angle to the board in the first row. (Figure 2) Press flat to subfloor to lock into place.
  3. Angle the long end with the next board in the second row
    Angle the long end of the next board in the second row to lock into the first row. (Figure 3)
  4. Follow the order described above to continue laying the boards in the second and additional rows.
  5. Use a pull bar if necessary to tighten joints.


Installing Under a Door Jam or Toe Kick

Installation of locking laminate through a door jamb or under a toe kick requires the lip of the groove to be reduced in size.

  1. Using a small plane or utility knife, plane or shave off 75% of the ledge of the groove.
  2. Be careful not to trim too much. Excessive reduction can weaken the joint.
  3. After the groove ledge has been trimmed, place the board in position laterally and lightly pull the board into place using the pull bar.
  4. Sometimes, more than one passing may be necessary in order to trim the ledge of the groove to the correct height.
  5. Joint should be tight with no movement; however a thin, 3/32 expansion gap is alright.


Finishing the Installation

Installing the moulding

  1. Remove spacers and install moulding pieces. (See Coordinated Transitions and Moulding Pieces Section K.)
  2. Always predrill transitions or mouldings prior to nailing. To allow the floating floor to move freely, do not fasten the trim to the laminate flooring.
  3. For everyday cleaning, vacuum or damp mop. To remove excessive dirt buildup, use Armstrong™ Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner (S-302) or Bruce® Dura-Luster® No-Wax Floor Cleaner.
  4. DO NOT WAX OR POLISH your floor.